It might be the most basic of all meals, but brunch is more beloved than ever. Famously scorned by the late, great Anthony Bourdain, who railed against brunch in his classic Kitchen Confidential, and widely considered to be a chef’s least-favorite shift, it’s cool to hate on brunch but hard to deny the crowd-pleasing, line-attracting popularity of fancy eggs and pancakes.
Thusly, CH Projects is here to snatch the crown from reigning brunch spots with an elaborate and immersive dining experience that focuses on daytime hours; Morning Glory opens Wednesday in Little Italy and will operate daily from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Aiming to create a place for both brunch detractors and devotees, co-founder Arsalun Tafazoli says the group invested $4 million and three years of research and development into the 4,000-square-foot eatery, applying the same sensibilities behind their grand steakhouse Born & Raised into improving breakfast.
There is no more extravagant and intricate backdrop for an omelet than the Morning Glory design from Paul Basile and team at BASILE Studio. Wrapped in gleaming shingles of polished copper, the second-level space has a set of 24 articulated windows that will move and undulate throughout the day and a floor of custom pink and black terrazzo. In the front room, looming above the coffee and pastry counter, an electric pink starburst structure with a wandering eye at its center is programmed with a 3-D camera to track diners around the room. Its reservation-only tables include a wall-sized, ergonomic booth system carved from organic Douglas Fir while counter seats are available to walk-ins. The main dining room features a luxurious open kitchen in 80s pink and green and a backlit, hand-etched mirrored ceiling.
Chef/partner Jason McLeod’s menu approaches breakfast from a global angle, highlighting day-starters from all over the world. There are trendy souffle pancakes from Japan and a French omelet with goat cheese for $12, chilaquiles with mole and a vegan frittata for $11, $9 fried rice with pork belly and eggs, and a $6 egg sandwich as well as cinnamon waffle French toast, a traditional English fry-up, and chicken-fried dry-aged steak and eggs. Morning Glory will also offer an afternoon tea service, priced at $10 per person, that includes smoked fish, finger sandwiches, and pastries.
A more compact version of the tableside cart from Born & Raised will be employed as a vehicle for Bloody Marys made with umami-laden vegetable juice and vegan worcestershire sauce. The sharable $40 pitchers come with flash-chilled glasses and an array of garnishes, from seasonal pickles to cured meats. The cocktail list from Noble Experiment’s Tony Roehr and Andrew Cordero and CH beverage director Anthony Schmidt includes a variety of boozy coffee drinks, a spiked version of Orange Julius made with aquafaba, and a twist on the brunch stalwart, the Bellini, made with white port, sparkling wine, and housemade peach-almond cordial.
Until a more official opening on Monday, May 6, Morning Glory will be accepting a limited amount of walk-ins.